Excessive secretion of thick sebum is the cause of many skin problems. It leads to clogged pores and disruption of the skin barrier, which results in open and closed comedones with accompanying redness of the skin and ultimately, after the inflammation has finally subsided, hyperpigmentation spots often remain, which are the most difficult to get rid of.

All of these problems of oily skin are mostly addressed and acted upon only after the problem has already appeared. Then the problem requires the use of aggressive ingredients that can further dry out the skin, damage its barrier, and cause irritation.

Preventative action is a new approach to the care of oily, acne-prone skin, which strives to prevent problems before they even appear, so that there is no need for drastic measures and changes in the care routine.

This is where a unique ingredient comes into play, as if it were created to prevent the complex problem of oily and combination skin, and it is the revolutionary glycyrrhetinic acid that acts at the very source of the problem of excessive sebum secretion - in the sebocytes.

WHAT ARE SELFISH?

Sebocytes are cells in our skin responsible for the process of sebum production called lipogenesis. Sebum (skin oil) is a desirable occurrence in balanced conditions and a natural way for the skin to protect itself from drying out.

However, different skin types produce sebum with different characteristics, which is precisely the cause of problems in certain types.

Namely, the sebocytes of normal skin produce light and airy sebum that does not clog pores, while in oily and combination skin prone to comedones, the sebum is very thick and therefore impenetrable, which can significantly disrupt the balance of the skin itself.

WHY DOES THICK SEBUM FORM?

The reason lies in the sebocytes themselves. Among other things, the enzyme ALOX5 is involved in the process of sebum production. The problem arises when this enzyme begins to stimulate the excessive formation of unwanted lipids that can cause inflammatory processes in the skin.

The sebum that is then produced is very thick and hermetic, and because it also contains the aforementioned lipids, inflammation is easily possible, which creates ideal conditions for disrupting the balance of the skin barrier and forming comedones.

CAN IT INFLUENCE THE SECRETION OF THICK SEBUM?

Absolutely! The solution lies in preventing the formation of unwanted lipids. Glycyrrhetinic acid acts on the aforementioned enzyme ALOX5. By reducing its activity, it acts preventively and anti-inflammatory.

WHAT IS GLYCYRETHIC ACID?

You may have already met it without knowing it. Licorice, a perennial plant widespread in the Mediterranean, which is known worldwide for its exceptionally sweet root and medicinal properties, is a very popular ingredient in the care of skin prone to irregularities and hyperpigmentation.

However, it is less known that glycyrrhetinic acid is the most active compound derived from licorice root. Only by isolating it can we target the specific problems of oily and combination skin.

HOW DOES GLYCYRETHIC ACID WORK?

To get the most out of licorice extract, we use glycyrrhetinic acid, which provides four excellent effects for proper care and balance of oily and combination skin:

reduces sebum secretion by inhibiting the activity of the ALOX5 enzyme responsible for lipogenesis in sebocytes (1,2), thereby reducing the formation of undesirable lipids that promote inflammatory processes

by reducing the synthesis of unwanted lipids, it prevents inflammation, which can result in hyperpigmentation spots

reduces the synthesis of melanin(2,3) (skin pigment), which further helps in the fight against hyperpigmentation spots that occur as a result of comedones and inflammation

Literature:

(1) Sinha, Priyam, et al. "New perspectives on antiacne plant drugs: contribution to modern therapeutics." BioMed research international 2014 (2014).

(2) Kowalska, A., and U. Kalinowska‐Lis. "18β-Glycyrrhetinic acid: its core biological properties and dermatological applications." International journal of cosmetic science 41.4 (2019): 325-331.

(3) Gendler, Ellen C. "Treatment of periorbital hyperpigmentation." Aesthetic surgery journal 25.6 (2005): 618-624.