Although it has been used for many years, recent research has further confirmed the exceptionality of this ingredient and shown that niacinamide provides different effects at different concentrations. It is mainly used in a ratio of 2 to 5% because even at such low doses it shows excellent results, even with reactive skin.

WHAT IS NIACINAMIDE?

Niacinamide or nicotinamide is a derivative of vitamin B3, which is water-soluble. This active ingredient with a diverse range of effects is well tolerated by all skin types. It works great in combination with many other active ingredients and is one of the few active ingredients that does not cause irritation. On the contrary, niacinamide is extremely useful for reducing redness and irritation thanks to its anti-inflammatory effect.

HOW DOES NIACINAMIDE WORK?

Niacinamide is extremely beneficial for all skin types, thanks to its multiple, yet gentle effects. It stimulates the formation of ceramides, skin lipids that are essential for a healthy skin barrier, thus soothing irritated skin and helping to reduce inflammation and hyperpigmentation spots, making it an ideal ally in the care of reactive skin. Niacinamide is one of the few ingredients that provides excellent and visible results for all skin types.

WHO IS NIACINAMIDE FOR?

Helps with dry skin

Niacinamide stimulates the formation of ceramides, important lipids for retaining moisture in the skin. Dry skin often has a damaged skin barrier, which is why it fails to produce enough lipids, or skin fats, whose role is to retain moisture in the skin and prevent it from “evaporating” from it (1). the creation of exactly those much-needed ceramides, which helps the skin barrier to rebuild and better retain moisture, which is more than necessary for dry skin.

Helps with oily skin

Niacinamide reduces sebum secretion (2) by reducing the activity of enzymes important for its production (3), resulting in visibly less oily skin. Most research has been conducted at a 5% dose, but some studies (4) have shown evidence of an effect with as little as 2% niacinamide.

Helps comedone-prone skin

Niacinamide is also anti-inflammatory (3,4), helping to prevent the inflammation that precedes the formation of comedones. Also, because it reduces sebum secretion, niacinamide also prevents the formation of conditions that can lead to clogged pores (2,3,4), making it an essential ingredient for the care of reactive skin. With the additional effect of restoring the skin barrier, it promotes faster skin repair once a comedone has already formed.

Reduces hyperpigmentation

Niacinamide inhibits the entry of melanin into skin cells at a rate of 5% and an application time of at least 8 weeks (5). With this excellent mechanism, it also helps in the fight against hyperpigmentation spots that are a common consequence of inflammation and comedones.

Helps mature skin

Niacinamide increases skin elasticity and reduces the appearance of fine lines. At a 5% dose, it improves skin tone in 8 weeks (6). While there is no evidence of effectiveness for deep wrinkles and larger skin texture issues, niacinamide has been shown to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and minor texture imperfections, making it a great addition to a more mature skin care routine.

WHERE CAN NIACINAMIDE BE FOUND?

Niacinamide is very often added to creams, even when it is not particularly prominent as an ingredient, because it hydrates the skin well. It can be increasingly found in specialized emulsion serums and gel-serums in proportions of 5 to 10%. Since it is easily soluble in water, it can be mixed into most textures and types of products. Regardless of the type of product chosen, your skin is sure to love and appreciate this versatile ingredient!

Literature:

(1) Bissett, DL, et al. "Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin 1." International journal of cosmetic science 26.5 (2004): 231-238.

(2) Santos-Caetano, JP., et al. "Cosmetic benefits of a novel biomimetic lamellar formulation containing niacinamide in healthy females with oily, blemish-prone skin in a randomized proof-of-concept study." International journal of cosmetic science 42.1 (2020): 29-35.

(3) Wohlrab, Johannes, and Daniela Kreft. "Niacinamide-mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology." Skin pharmacology and physiology 27.6 (2014): 311-315.

(4) Draelos, Zoe Diana, Akira Matsubara, and Kenneth Smiles. "The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production." Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy 8.2 (2006): 96-101.

(5) Greatens, Amanda, et al. "Effective inhibition of melanosome transfer to keratinocytes by lectins and niacinamide is reversible." Experimental dermatology 14.7 (2005): 498-508.

(6) Bissett, Donald L., John E. Oblong, and Cynthia A. Berge. "Niacinamide: AB vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance." Dermatologic surgery 31 (2005): 860-866.